Birthstone jewellery: what to know first

Which stones survive being worn on a hand every day, which quietly fall apart, and why the difference comes down to one number.

Birthstone durability by month
Month Stone Mohs Suitable for
January Garnet 6.5–7.5 Daily wear with care
Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal.
February Amethyst 7 Daily wear with care
Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal.
March Aquamarine 7.5–8 Daily wear with care
Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal.
April Diamond 10 Daily wear, any setting
Hard enough for a ring worn every day.
May Emerald 7.5–8 Daily wear with care
Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal.
June Pearl 2.5–4.5 Protected settings only
Scratches easily. Keep it off the hands entirely.
June Moonstone 6–6.5 Occasional wear
Better in earrings or pendants than in a ring.
June Alexandrite 8.5 Daily wear, any setting
Hard enough for a ring worn every day.
July Ruby 9 Daily wear, any setting
Hard enough for a ring worn every day.
August Peridot 6.5–7 Occasional wear
Better in earrings or pendants than in a ring.
August Spinel 8 Daily wear, any setting
Hard enough for a ring worn every day.
September Sapphire 9 Daily wear, any setting
Hard enough for a ring worn every day.
October Opal 5.5–6.5 Occasional wear
Better in earrings or pendants than in a ring.
October Tourmaline 7–7.5 Daily wear with care
Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal.
November Topaz 8 Daily wear, any setting
Hard enough for a ring worn every day.
November Citrine 7 Daily wear with care
Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal.
December Turquoise 5–6 Protected settings only
Scratches easily. Keep it off the hands entirely.
December Zircon 6–7.5 Occasional wear
Better in earrings or pendants than in a ring.
December Tanzanite 6–7 Occasional wear
Better in earrings or pendants than in a ring.

Why hardness decides everything

Ordinary household dust contains quartz, which sits at 7 on the Mohs scale. Anything softer than 7 is therefore being sanded, very slowly, by the air in your house. That is the entire reason an opal ring goes cloudy after a few years while a sapphire ring does not.

Rings take the most punishment — hands hit doorframes, desks and keyboards all day. Earrings and pendants hang free and are hit by almost nothing. A stone that is a bad idea in a ring is often perfectly sensible in a necklace.

The months that need care

  • June — pearl (2.5–4.5). Softer than a copper coin. Dissolved by acid, so perfume, hairspray and sweat all attack it. Put it on last and wipe it after wearing.
  • October — opal (5.5–6.5). Contains up to 21 percent water and can craze — develop fine internal cracks — if it dries out or suffers a sudden temperature change. Never leave it in a hot car.
  • December — turquoise (5–6). Porous. Absorbs oils and changes colour over years of contact with skin. Some owners consider that a feature.

Settings

A bezel setting wraps metal fully around the stone and protects the edges — the sensible choice for anything under 7. Prongs show more of the stone and expose it more; fine for diamond, ruby and sapphire, risky for opal and pearl.

One more practical point: never store stones loose together in one box. Diamond at 10 will scratch every other stone you own, and it does not need much contact to do it.

Cleaning

Warm water, mild soap and a soft brush suit most stones at 7 and above. Ultrasonic cleaners are risky for anything porous, fractured or heat-treated — that rules out emerald, opal, turquoise, pearl and most tanzanite. Selenite is water-soluble and should never be rinsed at all.

Questions

Which birthstone is toughest for an everyday ring?

April's diamond at 10, followed by July's ruby and September's sapphire at 9. All three shrug off daily wear indefinitely.

Can I put a pearl in a ring?

You can, but it will not last. At 2.5–4.5 a pearl is softer than most things your hand touches. If you want June in a ring, moonstone or a lab-grown alexandrite is a far more practical choice.

Is a treated stone worth less?

Treatment is normal and disclosed treatment is not a defect — nearly all blue topaz is irradiated, most citrine is heated amethyst, and the majority of sapphire on the market is heat-treated. Untreated stones command a premium, but treated ones are not fakes.