Birthstone jewellery: what to know first
Which stones survive being worn on a hand every day, which quietly fall apart, and why the difference comes down to one number.
| Month | Stone | Mohs | Suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|
| January | Garnet | 6.5–7.5 |
Daily wear with care Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal. |
| February | Amethyst | 7 |
Daily wear with care Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal. |
| March | Aquamarine | 7.5–8 |
Daily wear with care Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal. |
| April | Diamond | 10 |
Daily wear, any setting Hard enough for a ring worn every day. |
| May | Emerald | 7.5–8 |
Daily wear with care Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal. |
| June | Pearl | 2.5–4.5 |
Protected settings only Scratches easily. Keep it off the hands entirely. |
| June | Moonstone | 6–6.5 |
Occasional wear Better in earrings or pendants than in a ring. |
| June | Alexandrite | 8.5 |
Daily wear, any setting Hard enough for a ring worn every day. |
| July | Ruby | 9 |
Daily wear, any setting Hard enough for a ring worn every day. |
| August | Peridot | 6.5–7 |
Occasional wear Better in earrings or pendants than in a ring. |
| August | Spinel | 8 |
Daily wear, any setting Hard enough for a ring worn every day. |
| September | Sapphire | 9 |
Daily wear, any setting Hard enough for a ring worn every day. |
| October | Opal | 5.5–6.5 |
Occasional wear Better in earrings or pendants than in a ring. |
| October | Tourmaline | 7–7.5 |
Daily wear with care Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal. |
| November | Topaz | 8 |
Daily wear, any setting Hard enough for a ring worn every day. |
| November | Citrine | 7 |
Daily wear with care Fine for rings, but avoid knocks against stone and metal. |
| December | Turquoise | 5–6 |
Protected settings only Scratches easily. Keep it off the hands entirely. |
| December | Zircon | 6–7.5 |
Occasional wear Better in earrings or pendants than in a ring. |
| December | Tanzanite | 6–7 |
Occasional wear Better in earrings or pendants than in a ring. |
Why hardness decides everything
Ordinary household dust contains quartz, which sits at 7 on the Mohs scale. Anything softer than 7 is therefore being sanded, very slowly, by the air in your house. That is the entire reason an opal ring goes cloudy after a few years while a sapphire ring does not.
Rings take the most punishment — hands hit doorframes, desks and keyboards all day. Earrings and pendants hang free and are hit by almost nothing. A stone that is a bad idea in a ring is often perfectly sensible in a necklace.
The months that need care
- June — pearl (2.5–4.5). Softer than a copper coin. Dissolved by acid, so perfume, hairspray and sweat all attack it. Put it on last and wipe it after wearing.
- October — opal (5.5–6.5). Contains up to 21 percent water and can craze — develop fine internal cracks — if it dries out or suffers a sudden temperature change. Never leave it in a hot car.
- December — turquoise (5–6). Porous. Absorbs oils and changes colour over years of contact with skin. Some owners consider that a feature.
Settings
A bezel setting wraps metal fully around the stone and protects the edges — the sensible choice for anything under 7. Prongs show more of the stone and expose it more; fine for diamond, ruby and sapphire, risky for opal and pearl.
One more practical point: never store stones loose together in one box. Diamond at 10 will scratch every other stone you own, and it does not need much contact to do it.
Cleaning
Warm water, mild soap and a soft brush suit most stones at 7 and above. Ultrasonic cleaners are risky for anything porous, fractured or heat-treated — that rules out emerald, opal, turquoise, pearl and most tanzanite. Selenite is water-soluble and should never be rinsed at all.
Questions
Which birthstone is toughest for an everyday ring?
April's diamond at 10, followed by July's ruby and September's sapphire at 9. All three shrug off daily wear indefinitely.
Can I put a pearl in a ring?
You can, but it will not last. At 2.5–4.5 a pearl is softer than most things your hand touches. If you want June in a ring, moonstone or a lab-grown alexandrite is a far more practical choice.
Is a treated stone worth less?
Treatment is normal and disclosed treatment is not a defect — nearly all blue topaz is irradiated, most citrine is heated amethyst, and the majority of sapphire on the market is heat-treated. Untreated stones command a premium, but treated ones are not fakes.